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This was the concern of the wildly popular womens magazine The Ladys Book in 1830, which advised readers that when attempting to engraft any part of the attire of olden times upon modern stylesmuch discretion and judgment are required. The writer went on to caution, We should not snatch, but select. This voicereasoned, sophisticatedwarns against the excesses of unbridled enthusiasm, and it seems to have been heeded recently as designers have turned for inspiration to goth, a youth-associated subculture not exactly famous for its restraint

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